Piranhas, a hidden gem in the Northeastern Backlands, "O Sertão"
- Gustavo Galli
- há 4 dias
- 5 min de leitura
When we think about traveling to the Northeast of Brazil, the first thing that comes to mind are the region's paradise beaches. This is obvious, as the Northeastern coast covers more than 3,300km (2,050 miles), corresponding to 45% of the Brazilian coastline. The Sertão, which is what we call the interior of the Northeast (the backlands), is often undervalued by us Brazilians, and to be honest, I believe there is even a little prejudice when we think about the region. Despite this, the Sertão has a unique beauty and is one of the least explored places in Brazil. In other words, if you also like to venture off the beaten path when traveling, this is your opportunity!
Piranhas is undoubtedly one of the must-see spots in the region. The town sits on the banks of one of the country's largest and most iconic rivers, the São Francisco River, or as locals affectionately call it, "Velho Chico" (Old Chico). It is the largest river entirely within Brazil, stretching over 2,900km, rising in the state of Minas Gerais and flowing through the states of Bahia and Pernambuco to finally empty out on the border of Alagoas and Sergipe. The town is charming and has that colonial feel with cobblestone streets and colorful houses. At night, the streets come alive, and the atmosphere becomes pleasant for walking and sitting at the downtown bars to listen to music and have a beer. In short, it has everything we love! Accommodation options are still somewhat restricted, but it is already possible to find very nice and fairly priced Airbnbs. That is exactly what we did. :)
How to get there?
We left São Paulo and flew to Aracaju, where we rented a car to drive to Piranhas. It took us approximately four hours to cover a little over 200km on a very good road. We stopped unintentionally in Itabaiana for lunch and ate one of the best dishes of the trip: a fried fish with rice, beans, and farofa (toasted manioc flour). *If you come to Brazil, you have to try farofa! It was so good that I strongly suggest you stop at this restaurant if you are taking this route. It is called Galego do Peixe. Check this out!
It's also possible to drive from Maceió, the capital of Alagoas. According to Google Maps, the route looks more or less the same, but I'm not sure about the road conditions. It is worth checking properly if you are leaving from there, okay?
*If you rent a car using this link, you will be helping me maintaining this blog alive.
What to do?
Cânions do Xingó: this is an unmissable tour! The canyons are navigable, which means the view we get from inside the boat gives us the dimension of the enormous reddish walls, more than 50 meters high, all around us. For your reference, the Xingó Canyon is the fifth largest navigable canyon in the world, with 65km in length and up to 170m in depth. It's incredible!
The tour lasts about 4 hours, with a stop for swimming in the river right in the middle of the Canyons, and a pretty decent all-you-can-eat lunch at a very nice restaurant. We bought the ticket directly on the beach in Piranhas, just after the town center, and left the following morning. It cost about US$30 per person. We definitely thought it was super worth it!
Swimming in the River "Velho Chico": one of the coolest experiences for us was swimming in the São Francisco River. I believe part of that excitement comes from the fact that we heard about the grandeur and importance of this river since we were kids, so we ended up building a lot of anticipation from our imagination. But cooling off in the fresh water when temperatures outside are over 30 degrees Celsius is not bad at all, right? Just so you know, Piranhas is in the middle of the Northeastern semi-arid region, a climate characterized by almost no rain and intense heat throughout the year, so I can guarantee you'll also want to take a dip in the river late in the afternoon! Oh, just be a little careful because the São Francisco River has strong currents, so don't go too far out and, if possible, ask the locals for the best places to swim.
Ilha do Ferro Art Village: this is one of those places you hear about and don't believe it exists until you see it with your own eyes. Ilha do Ferro is a small village with the highest number of artisans per square meter in Brazil! All the houses in the village are beautiful and super colorful, functioning as studios open to the public. Each artisan works and produces their art in a unique and authentic way, meaning in every house you enter, you will see something different. The pieces are made of wood, fabric, metal, and various other materials that somehow complement each other, giving personality to everything that comes out of Ilha do Ferro. I remember after we returned from there, we stopped to look at a shop window in São Paulo and were sure the pieces were from Ilha do Ferro. We were right! The coolest thing is that it is possible to talk with the artists and even see them working on new pieces. Save some space in your suitcase for at least a few pieces, because I guarantee you will regret it if you don't buy any!
Just one more tip! I remember that on the day we visited Ilha do Ferro, it was about 35 degrees Celsius and it was even difficult to breathe while walking through the streets. Therefore, I suggest you go either very early or late in the afternoon, as the weather will be much more pleasant. We went by car from Piranhas, and the trip took about an hour and a half, but there is also a boat tour leaving from the city that costs around US$35 per person. We didn't take it, but I'm sure it must be very interesting.
City walk at night: During the evening, the city lights up and the atmosphere becomes super pleasant for walking around, seeing the craft shops, and sitting down to eat and have a cold beer in the main square, where there are live music shows every night. We did this every night we stayed in Piranhas, and it was very special. On one of those nights, we went to eat at a super charming restaurant called Nalva Cozinha Autoral. I highly recommend you go there at least one day. They offer typical local cuisine with a refined touch. It is sensational!
Trilha do Cangaço: we ended up not taking this tour, but it is considered one of the highlights of the region, so I decided to include it here too! The Cangaço Trail takes you to the Grota do Angico, which was the place where Virgulino Ferreira da Silva, "Lampião", and Maria Bonita died in an ambush in 1938. The couple were the biggest exponents of a social and banditry movement called Cangaço. Between the 19th and 20th centuries, the cangaceiros roamed the sertão committing various types of robberies, thefts, kidnappings, and murders, often motivated by vengeance, and became a symbol of social justice in Brazil. The tour seems quite interesting for anyone who wants to learn more about the history of the Cangaço.
I hope you can enjoy Piranhas as much as we did! If you have any questions, feel free to put them in the comments! Cheers!
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