The Caves of Terra Ronca: Discovering Brazil's Unknown Underworld
- Gustavo Galli
- há 2 dias
- 6 min de leitura
A few years ago, I embarked on a 6-month trip across the Brazilian countryside with my trailer. While I was still in the Chapada dos Veadeiros region (read the post), I met Helinho, a unique character and the son of the owner of the hostel where I was parked. During one of our late-night conversations about life, he mentioned a place called Terra Ronca, just over 4 hours away. I confess I had never heard of it, and I asked him to repeat the story several times until I fully understood what it was. He told me that this place had enormous caves, stretching for kilometers, entrances the size of buildings, waterfalls, and even rivers inside them. Everything seemed too surreal to be true! He went on to say that he had gotten lost inside one of the caves and was rescued by the man who had personally discovered dozens of them: Mr. Ramiro. Unable to believe it completely, I decided to go check this place out for myself!
The day after, I managed to get Mr. Ramiro’s contact information and sent him a message asking about the region and if it was possible to take my trailer there. He sent me an old news report showing the caves and told me there was a very long dirt road leading up to the area. He advised that it would be better for me to go by car with just my tent. And so I did! I stayed there for two days and visited some of the most incredible and marvelous caves in the region. But there was still so much left to see. The Terra Ronca State Park is one of the largest cave complexes in Latin America, with more than 200 caves cataloged across 57,000 hectares. This is one of those still unexplored places that is worth visiting once in a lifetime! I left wanting to go back!
How to get there?
Since you will probably be leaving from a major city, I recommend you fly into Brasília and start the trip there. As the country's capital, Brasília has daily flights from many locations, and they are not too expensive. Once you arrive, rent a car and face the 6-hour drive to the Terra Ronca State Park, which is just over 400 km away. When I went, there was a dirt road of about 40km passing through the city of Guarani de Goiás, but this road was paved a few years ago, making the arrival at the Park much easier. A small, simple car will be enough to make the journey.
Another possibility, which is my preferred one, is for you to create an itinerary that includes both Chapada dos Veadeiros and Terra Ronca. I say this because, in my humble opinion, going all the way to Brasília and not seeing the wonderful waterfalls and trails of Chapada is a waste. From Brasília to Chapada is only 3 hours, and from there to Terra Ronca, another 3 hours. I believe a one-week itinerary is enough to enjoy both places.
*If you rent a car using this link, you will be helping me maintaining this blog alive.
Where to stay?
When I went there in 2021, I camped at Camping do Ramiro. It was incredible, because besides being right next to Terra Ronca's main cave, the owner is practically a legend in the region and knows everything about the place. They say he personally discovered at least a dozen of the caves in Terra Ronca. I talked to him a while ago, and he told me that he had built some simple rooms on the property, which can be great if you are looking for something more authentic. Just be careful with Mr. Ramiro’s toucan! His name is Renato and he’s a super jealous little creature! LOL! :) Here is his WhatsApp contact if you want more information: +55 62 99855-7291.
If you are looking for a bit more comfort, there is a small village in the middle of the Terra Ronca State Park called São João. Although the options for hotels are restricted, you will certainly be able to find a good place to stay. Since I only went to the village at night to have dinner, I don't have any specific tips on where to stay, but I did find some cool options on Booking.com.
When to go?
The best time to visit Terra Ronca is during the drier months, from June to September, when rainfall is rare and the trails will be safer. This doesn't mean you can't go at other times. I went at the end of October myself, and everything was great. Just be cautious if you are planning to go from December to March, as it rains quite a bit during this period and the trails become less accessible.
What to do?
The main attraction of the Terra Ronca State Park is the caves. There are more than 200 counted, and several are still being discovered. I spent only two days in the region and visited two of them. It was incredible! In my opinion, three or four days are enough for Terra Ronca. I say this because visiting a cave is not like hiking a regular trail and arriving at a waterfall for a clean, cold shower. A cave is dark, inhospitable, and after a while inside, you can start to feel anxious to get out. Well, I felt that way, and I think if you don't have any prior caving experience, you might want to take this into consideration.
It is important to say that it is not recommended at all to enter the caves without a guide. The caves are dark, with many dangerous spots, and, obviously, there is no cell phone signal. Therefore, before going there, send a message to Ramiro (+55 62 99855-7291), tell him how many days you plan to stay and what you expect from the tours. He is a legend in the region, so you can be sure you will be in good hands. But let's get down to business! These are the best-known caves in Terra Ronca:
Gruta Terra Ronca: this is certainly the most famous and iconic cave in the Park, which is why it carries its name. The cave entrance is majestic! It is 96m high and it seems bigger when you are down there! The cave extends itself for 6km and it has some two parts. The first, which is 800m long is what they call Terra Ronca I. Afterward, the cave opens up, and we cross a river, reaching the second part, Terra Ronca II. I remember being inside and thinking, "How is something this size even possible?" The formations on the walls are enormous, and it looks like you are seeing corals on the seabed. I think caves have some of the magic of the sea! It is something so impressive that even today I find myself thinking and reflecting on what I experienced during those two days.
Gruta São Matheus: on my second day, I visited one of the most incredible caves in the Park, Gruta São Matheus. It stretches for over 25 km, and I remember the entrance looking like just a hole in the ground—quite different from Gruta Terra Ronca! We went in, and as we descended the super steep and narrow stairs, the cave began to open up. Soon, we could tell the size and immensity of the place. There are several giant halls, adorned with various formations coming from the ceiling and the floor in a completely random manner. There, Ramiro explained that it takes over 10 years to form one centimeter of stalactite. I was left reflecting on how many millions of years it took for that cave and all the others to form. My feeling upon leaving was one of insignificance in relation to the world! I don't know about you, but I like to feel that way! It was one of the most intense and marvelous experiences I've ever had!
Gruta da Angélica e Gruta São Bernardo: I did not visit either of these two caves, but Ramiro told me they are incredible. Gruta Angélica is over 14km long with waterfalls and rivers inside, and Gruta São Bernardo has several halls with amazing formations. If you have more time, I strongly suggest you plan to visit these two caves.
I hope this post inspires you to visit this unique and marvelous place called Terra Ronca! :)
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