Caraíva: my dream little village in Bahia
- Gustavo Galli
- 1 de abr.
- 7 min de leitura
Atualizado: 22 de jun.
If I were to choose my next vacation, I would definitely go to Bahia. Besides the perfect climate - sun all year round - Bahia has history, culture, food, and breathtaking landscapes and beaches. In other words, Bahia has it all! The history of Brazil is closely linked to the state, as it was there that the Portuguese landed in the 16th century and made Salvador our first capital. Even the point of "discovery" still generates many discussions here, and although we are taught that the arrival was in Porto Seguro, in one of my last trips there, I learned that everything actually happened in Barra do Cahy (Google it!). Bahia is the state with the greatest African influence in the country - more than 80% of the population is of African descent - and this is evident in the cuisine, in the music, and in the joy of the Bahians ("baianos" as we call them).
I had to write this brief introduction because Bahia is contagious and deeply moves me. But let's get to what matters: Caraíva! If anyone asks me what are the most special places I have ever visited in my life, Caraíva is certainly among them. This is one of those magical places that you don't believe exists and that makes you reflect on the deepest aspects of our human existence on Earth. There are no cars or motorcycles, the streets are sandy, and life goes by slowly, following the tide of the river that gives the village its name. Electricity only arrived in 2007, and from then on, this small fishing village became better known. I visited Caraíva for the first time on New Year's Eve of 2012, and the impact was so great that I returned in the following two years.
How to get there?
The easiest way to arrive is to take a plane to Porto Seguro and then a taxi or van to Caraíva (*tip: I always use Decolar.com to buy any tickets in Brazil. It's easier, cheaper, and their service is better than most airlines). The car journey takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, and part of it is on a dirt road - about 30km - so be prepared. The only problem is that you will need to make a reservation in advance, as there is no direct service from the airport. My tip is to Google for "taxi caraíva de porto seguro" and send some WhatsApp messages to companies that make the route. The cost is more or less US$100 for a car for up to four people. If you are alone, ask to be included with a group. It usually works.
There is also a bus that leaves from Arraial d'Ajuda to Caraíva, but I don't recommend it because it only has two schedules - 7 a.m. and 3 p.m. - and you will have to leave the airport, cross the ferry, and catch the bus on time. In other words, it's a lot of work for savings that don't make much sense. Anyway, I researched, and the bus fare is quite cheap ~US$5.00.
What to do?
Relaxing day at the beach & river: to have a perfect day in Caraíva, you don't need much! Spend the day on the beach, drink coconut water, eat a moqueca for lunch, and watch the sunset with an ice-cold beer by the Caraíva River. Although simple, definitely set aside a day to do just that. One of the highlights and most special aspects of this place is the calm and pleasant vibe that can only be enjoyed on a day without many commitments.
Buggy to Ponta do Corumbáu: the Caribbean exists in Brazil! Ponta do Corumbáu is a paradisiacal beach with white sand, calm blue water, located approximately 1 hour away from the center of Caraíva. The tour is done by buggy, passing through an indigenous reserve, and costs around ~US$50 for two people round trip. This value is fixed and is done only by indigenous people of the region, so you will be helping the locals if you take this tour. I also think it's impossible to go to Caraíva and not go to Corumbáu. :)
Night at bars and restaurants: the village of Caraíva has developed a lot in recent years, and today you can have a Negroni at a bar specializing in drinks, eat a good sushi, or enjoy a typically Bahian fish moqueca. In other words, rest assured because there will be plenty of options!
Dance and watch people dancing Forró: the nightlife in Caraíva falls into a different realm. In addition to the bars and restaurants, the highlight of the night are the two forró clubs, "Forró do Pelé" and "Forró do Ouriço," which play the typical northeastern music danced in pairs until dawn. My tip is to search on Google about forró and watch some videos on YouTube to better understand what it is about. If you can take some classes before traveling, even better. That way, you will enjoy the night much more!
Walk to Satú Beach: after crossing the river and walking about 3km along the beach, you will arrive at a restaurant that was once the home of a fisherman named Mr. Satú. As he was the only resident of the place, raising his children there, it is only fair that the beach bears his name. The place is special because, in addition to the paradisiacal view, there are three lagoons that border the beach where you can dive in fresh water to rinse off the salt and apply clay to your body. Try to find the clay! It is really magical for the skin. Believe me, I've tried!
*Pay attention to the tide to ensure you can return before the sea invades the beach. This is very important because there is no way to return to Caraíva at high tide.
Trekking to Praia do Espelho (Mirror Beach): walking another 7km from Satú Beach (10km from Caraíva), you will reach the famous Praia do Espelho, which got its name because it really looks like a mirror on calm tide days. The beach is truly beautiful, but the best part is the path, which passes through lagoons, beaches, and breathtaking cliffs. Don't forget to bring plenty of water, some snacks, and apply sunscreen because the sun is quite strong.
When you get there, ask about taxis, vans, buses, or boats to return to Caraíva. As it's a 4-hour walk, I think it's unlikely you'll want to walk back, right? Besides, it's not possible to return at high tide, so my recommendation is to return by some form of transport.
Visit to the indigenous village: 500 years ago, Brazil had more than 5 million indigenous inhabitants. Among the peoples who lived here, the Pataxós were the first to encounter the Portuguese because they lived right on the beach, on the coast of Bahia. Although the indigenous population is now a fraction of what it once was, there are still small remaining villages, and one of them is in Caraíva. In other words, it is a unique opportunity to learn more about the true Brazilian people.
The village is a 30-minute boat ride away, and the visit lasts about 2 hours, starting with a presentation on indigenous history. In addition, they do body painting and offer the "rapé" ritual, which they call the medicine of the forest. At the end, there is also a tasting of traditional foods with fish and cassava. It's very worthwhile! If I remember correctly, we paid US$20 per person for the visit and US$30 for the boat for two people.
Where to stay?
As you know, I only recommend places that are really worth it and where I have stayed. In Caraíva, there are plenty of options, but if you can, stay at the Ziriguidum guesthouse. I stayed there for 5 nights, and besides the owner being lovely, the location is great, and the breakfast is sensational. Every day they offered a surprise dish that was so good that we already woke up excited and curious to eat. They make the yogurt there, and the tapiocas filled with caponata and queijo coalho (grilled cheese) still make my mouth water.
What to eat?
Ray pastel at Bar do Pará: Bar do Pará is one of my favorite places in life. The tables are under the shade of a tree, with your feet in the sand and facing the river. My tip is to arrive around 4 p.m. to enjoy the sunset with a cold beer and all the delicacies that Pará has to offer. For me, the highlight is the ray pastel, but all the food is wonderful.
Fish Moqueca: it's impossible to go to Bahia and not eat a moqueca. This is one of the most typical dishes of the state and is omnipresent. It's a fish stew with tomato, onion, bell pepper, coconut milk, and dendê oil, which is the special Bahian touch. Dendê is a small fruit that, when mashed, gives a very red and viscous oil with a unique aroma and flavor. Don't forget to add a little chilli when you eat it. Every self-respecting Bahian loves chilli!
Netuno, the classic Caraíva drink: made with cachaça, ginger, and cashew, it's not that strong and goes down really well in the Bahia heat. It has about 14% alcohol and is served in a large glass with ice. My recommendation is to start the night with it to whet your appetite!
Comune Restaurant: I went to this restaurant once and had to go back because it was so good. The menu has a lot of good things, but I remember the tuna tartare was sensational. In the afternoon, there is also live music, which makes the place even more special.
I could write much more about Caraíva, but I don't want to spoil your surprise! If you still have any questions, write to me here, and I'll help you out! :)
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