Cumuruxatiba: a little paradise in Bahia where Brazil was "discovered"
- Gustavo Galli
- 10 de nov. de 2025
- 5 min de leitura
In October 2023, we had planned a road trip to the South of Brazil, but a week before the start of our vacation, a major storm advanced from Argentina and ended up flooding several cities we were going to visit. Unfortunately, this happens every year in Brazil, and although we don't have major natural disasters like earthquakes or volcanic eruptions, floods are quite common in the Southeast and South of Brazil. Since we hadn't booked anything yet, we decided to change our plans!
After a glass of wine and some brainstorming, we decided on the obvious: go to Bahia! I say obvious because going to Bahia is always incredible, and even though there are wonderful places in Brazil, nothing compares to Bahia. The climate, the people, the food, the music, and the culture absorb you in such a way that everything else seems a bit dull. Therefore, if you are coming to Brazil and are wondering whether or not to visit Bahia, choose the right path. Just go for it!
Our first destination was a small town in the south of Bahia called Cumuruxatiba, or as the locals say, Cumuru. I had heard about the place from a friend who spent a month there and fell in love with it. With over 1,100km of coastline, Bahia's coast still has unexplored places, and although Cumuru has good infrastructure in terms of guesthouses and hotels, I believe it is still a place that holds a lot of authenticity and untouched beauty. We spent five days in the region and can guarantee that it is very much worth it!
How to get there?
If you are in Rio or São Paulo, the easiest way to get there is to fly to Porto Seguro and rent a car. From Porto Seguro airport to Cumuru, the trip takes approximately 5 hours, with at least 50km of dirt road. It is not a short drive, but the scenery is very much worth it, and the road is not bad.
*If you rent a car using this link, you will be helping me maintaining this blog alive.
It is also possible to take a bus from Porto Seguro to the city of Prado and from there continue to Cumuru by taxi. We didn't take this route, but I researched it, and there is a bus company called Expresso Brasileiro that makes daily trips for about US$15. The price of the taxi to Cumuru must be agreed upon on the spot, but I believe it should not exceed US$60.
What to do?
Cumuruxatiba is a typical tourist town in southern Bahia with wonderful beaches, good restaurants, and an incredible little village for an evening stroll. Since we stayed there for five days, we ended up visiting several beaches and eating very well. I've listed what we enjoyed the most here.
Beaches
Barra do Cahy: In traditional literature, Brazil was "discovered" when Pedro Álvares Cabral landed in the current Porto Seguro, Bahia. But that's not the real story! At least, that's what the locals in Cumuru say. The story goes like this: upon sighting land, the first thing the Portuguese saw was a large hill, which they named Monte Pascoal. This hill is located in the Cumuruxatiba region, more than 100km away from Porto Seguro, meaning it would have been impossible for the Portuguese to land in Porto Seguro. Therefore, the actual site of the "discovery" would be the beach of Barra do Cahy. There is even a plaque marking the exact spot of the arrival.
The sand is that unique golden color that only Bahia has, and the sea is green and warm. There are several well-structured restaurants where you can have coconut water, beer, and various seafood options for lunch. We spent the day there at a restaurant called Glória, and I remember that the beach was almost empty. We walked for kilometers along the sandy shore without seeing anyone, with the beach all to ourselves. It was an incredible experience. When we returned, we had a fantastic shrimp in moranga (squash) with a beer! This is definitely one of the best beaches in the region! You simply cannot miss it!
Japara Grande: In my modest opinion, this is the most beautiful beach in the region. I say this because, besides being paradisiacal and untouched, there's a small river that cuts across the beach where you can take a freshwater dip after a swim in the sea. Is there anything better than that? This, to me, is the beach's unique charm! Furthermore, you can have some coconut water and eat a serving of fried banana with cassava at the beach's only restaurant, enjoying the shade of the coconut trees. This mix of untouched paradise, good energy, and great taste is what makes Bahia a unique place on Earth, and Japara Grande is the translation of all that! It's impossible to go there and not fall in love!
Praia de Imbassuaba: This is a find in the region! The beach is completely deserted and has no restaurant infrastructure whatsoever, but it's a great choice if you want something off-the-beaten-track. Getting there is quite simple and very close to Cumuru. It's about 7km along a dirt road and takes no more than 20 minutes.
Praia do Centro: If you're having one of those quieter days and just want to relax, the beach right in front of the Village (Vila) is ideal. The beach has plenty of infrastructure, with several restaurants that serve moqueca — the most traditional food in Bahia — and beach chairs that you don't have to pay to sit on. Obviously, you won't have the beach all to yourself because the majority of local tourists end up staying at this beach, but it is certainly a great option for a more relaxed day.
Eat and Drink
On this trip, we ended up eating out a lot and found some wonderful places. The food in Bahia is an episode in itself because it has a huge African influence and is, without a doubt, the spiciest food in Brazil. I personally love it! I've listed the restaurants we liked the most.
Restaurante Urucum: This is the spot if you are in the mood for a cocktail before dinner and want to eat something a little more refined. The décor is very beautiful, and the house is completely open-air, with beach chairs right on the sand. We ordered a drink and ate a wonderful octopus rice.
Catamarã Restaurante: This place is a real find! The restaurant is perched on top of a cliff and the view of the ocean is incredible. We stopped there on the way back from Japara Grande and had a wonderful fried fish with pirão baiano (a traditional Bahian fish gravy/puree). Since it was Alana's birthday, having lunch at this spot was unforgettable!
Gotí Pizzaria: We love to eat, and on our trips, we prioritize local foods, but there's always room for a pizza, right? The pizza is very simple, but we really liked it and highly recommend it.
Restaurante Mama África: For many, this is the best restaurant in Cumuruxatiba. We were going to celebrate Alana's birthday there, but it was closed that day. Even so, we made a point of including it here because we received so many recommendations for this place.
Uh Terere Doces: This is one of those tips you won't get just anywhere! After spending part of her life in Rio de Janeiro, the owner, Ana Cely, returned to her hometown and has been making the best chilled pudding in the world for over 20 years. The place is very simple and is located right on the busiest square in Cumuru. Besides the dessert being wonderful, the coolest part is chatting with this incredible woman who knows all the town gossip.
Well, as I said, going to Bahia is always the best and I hope you find this tips useful for your next trip. :)
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